Made in Zitsa, the only area within Epirus, Greece entitled to an appellation, this sparkler is made with a traditional white wine variety called Debina. True to the grape, the wine has a lively acidity, good minerality and an overall attractive quality. It’s a touch clunky and hard to embrace for a sparkling wine, though—and needs to be paired with food.——S.K.(12/15/2007)—— 82