A lush and tropical-fruit driven Chard; ripe notes of papaya, mango and apricot flood the nose and mouth. It’s rich and heavy in the mouth, but with good enough cut to keep things from being too sweet or cloying. ——L.B.(4/1/2012)—— 87

The 2008 CHARDONNAY “ODEM VINEYARD” (YARDEN) shows a big hit of oak up front, but also fine depth and some intensity on the finish. Although not for oak-a-phobes, this is a pretty classy wine in most respects, showing some finesse and lingering in an attractive fashion. If it suits your stylistic preferences, it is pretty well priced. The winery believes this wine can age, and it may well, but to me it is pretty close to peak now. Drink now-2013. Golan Heights is in most respects the father of the modern Israeli wine industry, the winery that insisted that Israel could compete on quality. They’ve made some of the best Israeli wines I’ve had, but they have a very diversified portfolio which covers various quality levels and price ranges. I do feel they have a heavy hand with the oak at times, particularly, but not exclusively, on the whites.Importer: Yarden, Inc., New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 997-9463

The 2005 CHARDONNAY ODEM VINEYARD YARDEN is from an organic vineyard. Another year in the cellar since I last saw it has neither harmed nor improved this wine. It still delivers some good fruit, a bit of steel, some brightness and reasonable body—and still delivers flavors that derive mostly from oak. With air and time, the oak becomes a bit too intrusive, but there are moments when this drinks rather well. It is ultimately a bit simple. Drink now-2010. Golan Heights is Israel’s semi-mythical winery, the one that pretty much kicked off the quality revolution that people are now talking about. Its best wines are among Israel’s best, although the wide range of products and lack of focus can make it somewhat unpredictable. These are all Kosher (not Mevushal).Importer: Yarden, Inc., New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 997-9463