This particular bottling from Goldwater continues to be an enigma. Despite the wine’s fame (and price), I’ve never been moved by it. The 2002 shows pretty, Bordeaux-like nuances of earth and tobacco on the nose, then charming cherry and vanilla flavors on the palate. Yet it never really fleshes out, and it turns a bit herbal and lean on the finish. Imported by Pasternak Wine Imports. ——J.C.(7/1/2005)—— 86