Here’s a serious Cava with Champagne qualities. The nose is nutty and rich, with hints of vanilla and popcorn that aren’t overdone. The palate is toasty but also candied, with citrus blending perfectly with butterscotch. Plump and ripe through the finish, this is high-end and stylish, as Spanish bubbly goes. Drink now or hold in a good cellar for a few more years. ——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 92