What stands out about Greenhough's 2019 Hope Vineyard Chardonnay is the intensity. From the spicy oak to the mouth-puckering pineapple fruit, this wine turns up the volume, yet it does so without losing nuance. Then there's the silky, mouth-coating texture and generous feel on the medium-bodied palate, combined with a bright, refreshing and lingering finish.

The 2017 Hope Vineyard Chardonnay combines hints of toasted almond and white peach with lots of bright pineapple fruit. It's medium-bodied, with a fine-grained texture; it seems rich without being heavy and finishes cool and long. It should drink well for a decade. Bravo!

All barrel-fermented in about 20% new oak, the 2016 Hope Vineyard Chardonnay is youthfully tight. Notes of toasted grain, roasted cashew, pineapple and citrus appear on the nose, and while the wine is medium to full-bodied, it doesn't show much generosity on the palate just yet, remaining crisp and firm on the finish.

Purists may object to the oak on the nose of this assertive wine, but I found the 2015 Hope Vineyard Chardonnay enormously bold, assertive and characterful. Incidentally, only 7% of the oak was new. Yes, the wine shows toasted-grain notes, but also plenty of grilled peach and pineapple to support those, plus ample weight and texture and a long, citrusy finish. It should drink well for several more years.

The 2014 Hope Vineyard Chardonnay offers delicate notes of white peaches, spiced apples and marzipan with hints of honeyed toast and orange blossoms. Medium-bodied with a great intensity of stone fruit and baking spice flavors, it has a lovely creamy texture and plenty of zip to the finish.