The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection emerges from the glass with terrific energy and polish. It possesses layers of expressive dark fruit, gorgeous inner perfume and plenty of harmony in a medium-bodied style that is quite pretty. Floral, spicy notes add life and sensuality on the silky finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Tel. (800) 532-3057

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection shows excellent depth in its expressive red fruit, mocha, grilled herbs and licorice. Some of the intensity trails off on the finish, but this is nevertheless a very well made wine. It is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Tel. (800) 532-3057

Even more suspiciously balanced is the flagship cuvee, the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville Selection. Herbaceous, with tart acidity, it does reveal good freshness along with cranberry, red currant, and sweet and sour cherry notes that suggest under-ripe Cabernet Sauvignon fruit. The high levels of acid and tannin will ensure longevity, but will the wine ever provide much pleasure? Tel. (800) 532-3057; Fax (707) 963-8725