The 2023 Alea Riesling leads with roasted pineapple, green apples, hints of lychee and juniper, lemon oil and coriander. The fruit is a little quieter this year, but it's no less "present." It is a beautiful wine, fleshy and soft, but it still remains tethered to the tracks of very fine, very firm acidity. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

The 2022 Alea Riesling is made from fruit grown at the Grosset Rockwood vineyard. This is the off-dry Riesling in the lineup, and I can tell you now, the sugar, the phenolics and the acidity are in a textural mesh of harmony in the mouth. There is a cross-hatch component to the mouthfeel, and it suspends the fruit over the tongue and out over the long finish. This is a really smart, composed, long (at this stage, quiet) and concentrated example of Clare Valley Riesling, proving Jeff Grosset is the master of the craft still. Yum.

With 7.5 grams per liter of residual sugar, the 2019 Alea Riesling is off-dry. Hints of lime and underripe peach mark the nose, while the light to medium-bodied palate is almost rainwater-like, showing only the merest bit of texture. The finish is lingering and tinged with classic Riesling notes of green apple.

Grosset's 2017 Alea Riesling reminds me of a Sp?tlese feinherb or halbtrocken in style, with just a hint of residual sugar alongside its 12% alcohol. Lime zest and white peach notes appear on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate offers more succulence and generosity than Grosset's dry Rieslings. I'd opt for drinking it over the next few years, although I suspect it might drink well for a decade or more.

The 2015 Alea Riesling has aromas of honeyed pears and fresh apples with white peach and allspice hints. Off-dry and light-bodied with a wonderfully crisp backbone to counter, it finishes with loads of youthful citrus and spice layers.