This could be labeled Cabernet Sauvignon, as the proportion of Cab Franc has been cut from half to just 21%. It sees a lot of new French oak, and at this young age remains a tight, tannic, tongue-scraper. Ripe, primary black fruits—blackberry and cassis—are cloaked in toasty cracker flavors. Decant this one if you plan to drink it anytime soon.——P.G.(12/15/2011)—— 89

Strong, full-bodied, tannic and muscular, this 50-50 blend of Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc seduces you with sweet berry fruit, backed with stiff tannins and well-modulated streaks of iron and earth. For Cab freaks this is a gold mine of flavor, but it will need decanting or cellaring. It should keep for a decade or more. ——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 90