This wine from Gulfi offers a fascinating taste of Carricante grown in the limestone clay soils of the Vigna Campo in Chiaramonte Gulfi (in the area of Ragusa in southeast Sicily) as opposed to the volcanic soils of Etna. The 2016 Carjcanti offers a whole new perspective on the grape. This slightly aged expression (the wine rests on the fine lees for one year in both oak casks and steel vats) is surprisingly linear, luminous and sharp. I would have expected more heft and concentration; however, this wine is delightfully light on its feet. That extra aging time has served to make it tight and tonic, and these are encouraging characteristics for those who might want to experiment with some modest cellar aging before popping the cork. At this stage, Carjcanti offers aromas of lemon zest, Granny Smith apple and crushed granite. Annual production ranges from 10,000 to 12,000 bottles made.

The 2015 Sicilia Carjcanti (with fruit from the Vigna Campo) opens to a very precise and focused bouquet with citrus, white melon, wild sage and crushed stone. The bouquet is tonic, sharp and immediate. On second look, there is a creamy side to this wine, with lemon mousse and peach extract that adds weight and volume to the mouthfeel. The wine is slightly heavy on the close in this hot vintage, so I would not wait too long to drink it. The wine ages on the lees in both oak casks and steel for one year. Some 8,500 bottles were made.

The 2012 Sicilia Carjcanti is an oak-aged white wine made with 95% Carricante and 5% Albanello. Showing slightly oxidized and evolved aromas, the wine offers ripe melon, apricot, toasted almond and wild sage. The complexity is moderate but the wine's richness is very evident. The mouthfeel ends with brighter tones of tropical fruit and pineapple that help to shape a more buoyant finish.

The 2006 Carjcanti (Carricante, Albanello) is a racy, generous white. It opens with explosive aromatics that meld into ripe yellow apricots and peaches, with underlying notes of smoke and toasted oak that add complexity. This expansive white is best enjoyed over the next few years Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Gulfi is one of my favorite sources for Nero d’Avolas loaded with personality. These two entry-level wines are good introduction to the house’s bold style. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202