Tschida’s 2005 Samling Beerenauslese smells of mint, sage, candied grapefruit rind, and black currant. Luscious and effusive on the palate, it delivers copious spice-tinged peach preserves, grapefruit marmalade, and herbal distillates in a persistent finish, if without quite the subtlety, lift, and refreshment of its Sauvignon counterpart. I have little doubt that this can be safely held for at least a decade. Hans Tschida – who has been working in wine since his childhood – has not worried about living almost literally in the shadow of Alois Kracher (with whom he says he shared many early discussions). Tschida’s sweet elixirs have their own elegant style and class, and he can also lay claim to some of best Eiswein and “Strohwein” (from fruit dried on mats) made anywhere in the world. In recent years, Tschida has begun shipping to the United States, which served to remind me it was high time that I brought his wines to the attention of my readers. Just as chez Kracher, there are two stylistic lines for nobly sweet wines: those that Tschida ferments in stainless steel tanks, he prefers to leave in tank; other wines are fermented and retained in barrique.Importers: Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029; Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com
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