One of Havens’ most interesting offerings is the non-malolactic 2006 Albarino. While it will not make anyone forget the zesty Albarinos from northwest Spain, this steel-fermented and aged white exhibits elegant, crisp tropical fruit notes offered in a light-bodied, zesty style. Drink it over the next year.Tel. (707) 261-2000

Sort of Pinot Grigio-like, with its tart, lemon and apple flavors and crisp acidity. Seems a bit simple at first blush, but that zesty acidity makes the mouth water and long for food, like chevre or grilled veggies.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 85