Schrock’s 2006 Ruster Ausbruch Turner represents pure Furmint vinified and raised in essentially the same manner as her blended Ausbruch. The naturally higher acidity of this grape lends an added sense of energy and intensity to this elixir. Orange marmalade, pear chutney, quince preserves, coconut, and spiritous Chartreuse-like herbal and floral essences are all suggested, and this combines striking penetration, brightness and lift with a viscous, oily texture. Hints of lime zest and toasted nut help keep the finish here invigorating. This should be worth following for ten or a dozen years. A collaborative 2007 Ausbruch between Schrock and the late Alois Kracher (and now with son Gerhard Kracher) with rented parcels (largely in the Turner) is maturing in traditional acacia barrels and due to be bottled this Spring. It displays a superb combination of opulence with refinement and energy, as well as striking spiciness of Pinot Gris. I’ll publish a full note after this wine is released. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2004 Ruster Ausbruch Turner smells overtly caramelized and exceedingly pungent – a legacy both of advanced botrytis and of Furmint’s inherent nature. A smoky, spicy, vanillin aura hangs over the entire long length of the wine – again the effect of botrytis multiplied by Furmint character (or vice versa). Caramelized and jammy apricot and quince fill in on a buttery, fat palate that nevertheless evinces a sense of lift and delicacy that belies the wine’s 14% alcohol and 200+ grams of residual sugar. The finish coats, but also penetrates to beyond the back of your neck.Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300