Furmint is essentially an Hungarian grape, but the Hungarian line is not far from Heidi Schrock’s winery in Rust, and there is a long historical connection between the two countries. With ripe fruit, this is smooth, rounded, spicy, hinting at exotic fruits, with the lightest of acidity. Screwcap. ——R.V.(7/1/2010)—— 88

Schrock’s 2007 Furmint is scented with nut oils and strawberry along with the more predictable, heady floral perfume (freesia, linden, peony) and quince. The combination of subtle oiliness and silken richness with levity and elegance is uncanny, and unanticipated for this variety (about whose proclivities in Rust – whence it was re-introduced in miniscule amounts in the ‘80s – we all have a lot yet to learn). Salt and wet stone mineral suggestions emerge on the finish along with pure quince and toasted nut nuances. I suspect (though the relevant track record does not exist) that this will prove fascinating for a decade. To achieve her consistently striking results with this grape, incidentally, Schrock has cut off the lower half of all of its embryonic bunches. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Schrock’s 2005 Furmint, harvested at the beginning of November, is full of flowers, peach and fresh lime in the nose, beautifully glossy in texture, and salty and camomile and peach-flavored in finish. Clear and refined, rarified and subtly complex, this wine shows new nuances each time you return to the glass. Following it for a few years could bring additional rewards. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300