The 2006 Ruster Ausbruch On the Wings of Dawn (from a blend of grape featuring Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Welschriesling) features orange marmalade, peach preserves, a brine-like mineral note, and nutmeg and cinnamon spice. Strikingly viscous yet ethereal in its sense of lift and pure, honeyed manifestation of botrytis, and with an early aura of caramelization, this wine of 10% alcohol manages to hide much of its 200 grams of residual sugar, and its persistent salinity helps keep its long, honeyed finish savory and stimulating. It should keep well for at least a decade. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Schrock labels her “basic” Ausbruch (which now always comes from a collection of varieties reminiscent of old field blends) with a quotation from the Psalms, hence (in the English label version) 2004 Ruster Ausbruch On the Wings of Dawn. Candied lemon, grilled pineapple, brown spice, and ethereal botrytis-like aromas segue into a creamy, oily, rich, yet not at all heavy palate kept lively and invigorating by incursions of fresh citrus and citrus rind and wrapped in orange and vanilla creme caramel. The freshness and elegance combined with tactile creaminess in the finish is extraordinary, with the level of perceived sweetness like that of fresh fruits, not at all exaggerated. And yet, come to find there are 220 grams of residual sugar here. Talk about refinement and lift ... no wonder Schrock quotes Psalm 139! The top offering of Ausbruch here (when it is possible) will continue to be 100% Furmint from the Turner vineyard. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300