The Schrock 2007 Muscat – this year 30% Sauvignon Blanc (a.k.a. “Muscat Silvaner”), 60% Gelber Muskateller, and 10% Muscat Ottonel – really puts the “musk” in “Muskat,” both in its animal and pungently spicy scents and its oily texture. Apricot, sage, marjoram, and orange blossom are also showcased in this sappy and satisfying blend, its finish invigoratingly suggesting salted peanuts, bitter-sweet citrus zest and apricot kernel, and pungent white pepper and herbs. This will prove versatile for at least 2-3 years. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2005 Muscat, which in fact is 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 60% Gelber Muskateller, and 20% Muscat Ottonel, is pungently herbal, pepperminty in the nose, brisk and lemony on the palate, and salty, sizzling, faintly oily-bitter and mint tinged in finish. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300