The 2007 Garrafeira "Private Selection" Tinto (average vine age, 20 years old) is principally a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez, aged for 18 months in French oak and then held another 18 months in bottle before release. Graceful and elegant, although with a fairly heavy oak overlay and modern styled, this wine is soft and sensual on first attack, with enough tannin to provide intensity, but not much astringency. It becomes fairly powerful and gripping, although in a controlled fashion, after about two hours of air, waking up and showing off its structure. It was very much the tortoise, gradually coming out of its shell. This is a wine that will reward some cellaring, even though it seems quite accessible on opening. Even though held in oak and bottle for an extended period before release, and even after being aired out, it still shows some potential to improve with cellaring. It should integrate its parts better so that the oak is not quite so obvious. Despite is sexy demeanor, albeit with that bit of steel underneath, hold off on popping the cork as its rating is mostly about potential at the moment, even if it somewhat deceptively seems accessible. It should be better with another couple of years in the cellar. This to me is decidedly the best wine in the winery's lineup this issue - whether it is worth the big price spike is up to your wallet. Drink 2013-2022. This iconic Southern Portuguese winery has a lot of new labels this year, which generally look pretty good. The labels for the Reserva and Private Selection, of course, feature art by Portuguese artists - see all the back labels for details. The monovarietal wines now come with just a big letter or two on the front - like "S" for Syrah or "V" for Verdelho. The details are on the label in smaller print.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

This is an immense wine in all senses. From the black color through the sheer weight of fruit to the powerful black berries and plums, this is all about concentration and density. With its spice and wood elements, everything is in vivid color. Age for another year.——R.V.(12/15/2009)—— 92

The 2004 GARRAFEIRA PRIVATE SELECTION (3,500 cases produced) is primarily a blend of Alicante Bouschet and Syrah, with a little Touriga Nacional, aged for 18 months in new French oak. The Garrafeiras are usually among Esporao’s best wines. On first taste of this a year or so ago at the winery, I thought it was arguably the best wine I had had from Esporao, but it was shut down pretty hard and quite ferocious. It seems dramatically changed, and not necessarily for the better. It is wide open now and showing surprising approachability, with a very different demeanor than I saw at the winery. The blend is working beautifully, the wine dominated at the moment by the beautiful Alicante flavors, but showing just enough Syrah earthiness underneath to give the wine a little distinction and complexity. The oak is a little prominent at the moment, but it integrates with some air. It is an elegant, rather restrained wine in many respects, harmonious, but lacking the intensity that would make it truly distinguished. I’m not sure this fulfills its early promise, in the sense that it does not outperform the ’03 or ’01, but that doesn’t mean it is a slouch. In fact, it is quite delicious, round and sensual, projecting great harmony and soft, sensual texture. Some air does bring out some underlying tannins, but I’m still surprised at how quickly it has rounded into form and shed its tannins. I kept waiting for it to develop into something more in the decanter, and it never really did. The suggested retail price has increased to $50 this year compared to an SRP of $40 for the 2003 vintage I reviewed in 2006. Drink now-2014. This old stalwart in Alentejo provides some of the best buys in Portugal. Its current lineup is notable for the number of fine values, even with the continuing problems with exchange rates (many of these prices may have been set before the recent resurgence of the dollar). Sometimes, the big question here is simply why you should bother to trade up to their more expensive wines.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843