From tank (although a portion of it previously sojourned in barrel) the 2005 Gewurztraminer Dry smelled of crabapple, blood orange, and smoked meat. Nearly Riesling-like acids balance out ten grams of sugar on the palate for a dry impression. This displays creamy texture – even with fresh fruit acidity – and a palpable sense of density and grip, finishing with citrus, spice and herbs. A bit of time should bring out the classic rose petals and lychee here, but it is already clear this will be strikingly successful. Tel. (800) 371-7971

Wiemer’s 2003 Gewurztraminer Dry manages to offer ripe, spicy, floral expressions of this variety, to be truly dry, and yet to maintain a mere 11.5% alcohol. This is a trick that can be accomplished in no other wine region I know, and the effect encourages both food pairings and straight sipping. In fact, Wiemer strategizes his picking to capture different layers of flavor and levels of ripeness. “The individual lots aren’t all that interesting on their own,” says assistant winemaker Fred Merwarth, “not until you assemble them.” Aromas of ham hock, lychee, and rose petal lead to a palate that is creamy yet juicy. The finish really grips, laying down a trail of brown spices and floral perfume, yet without any of the bitterness that can so often plague this variety. Tel. (800) 371-7971