As usual in this region, I found myself drawn toward the 2007 Riesling Dry rather than its “semi-dry” counterpart. Finger Lakes Riesling cannot support residual sugar in the manner of German Riesling. This wine labeled “dry” tastes like what in Germany would be considered “halbtrocken,” which is to say it’s well balanced with a very faint and appropriate hint of sweetness. Cooling lime and mint mingle with a hint of vanilla on a sleek, soothing palate with plenty of freshness but no distinct impression of acid “cut.” A substantial, juicy finish is lent invigoration by faint fruit skin and lime peel astringency and a hint of pungent, bitter-sweet herbs. Enjoy Riesling this over the next 2-3 years. Last year, pioneer Finger Lakes wine maker and nurseryman Herman Wiemer sold his winery to his long-time assistant, Fred Merwarth. No one should expect this to bring significant changes in the wines other than a continuation of the steady improvement and emergence into an international spotlight that has been Wiemer’s legacy. (And he continues to be directly involved in operations at the winery that bears his name.) The latest crop of Riesling bottlings here includes two fascination single block wines that transcend the price ceiling for this report but are well worth consumers’ attention.Tel. (800) 371-7971

From tank, the 2005 Riesling Dry looks set to be a winner. Smelling like a honey-laced Normandy cider, it comes onto the palate bright, sappy, and full of appley fruit. It is not the most complex of Rieslings (perhaps with some time?) but is utterly pure and lovely. Tel. (800) 371-7971

A little residual sugar seems to go a lot longer way here than it would in Germany. Wiemer’s 2004 Riesling Dry – a truly exceptional value – smells alluringly of apple blossom, sweet clover, and peach. Creamy in texture yet bright and refreshing, it billows across the palate accompanied by delicate notes of flowers and spice. Clear and juicy in its long finish, it evinces a positive though slight hint of sweetness and a bittersweet note of flowers and vanilla. Tel. (800) 371-7971