The winery doesn’t tell us where in this gigantic, multi-county region the grapes came from, but it’s quite a good wine. Firm in citrusy acids, with a mineral undertow, it’s a dry, elegant wine with complex notes of pineapples, buttered toast and creamy lees. Lots of oak, but it’s integrated with the fruit. ——S.H.(3/1/2010)—— 91