This 2021 Shiraz The Mad Hatter is wildly aromatic! One would swear it had a little Viognier included in the mix, although nothing listed on the website or back label indicates this. It's an elegant, floral, pretty wine with layers of spice and detail. In the mouth, this is all about licorice, violets, Morello cherries, some kirsch, Tina wafers, mulberry, blueberry, strawberry at the height of summer and orange peel. There is a note of clove, even. All good things happening here. It is fresh, vibrant, lively, modern, dappled and always moving—really good. 14% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Medium garnet/purple, the 2013 Shiraz The Mad Hatter opens to vague baked plum and prune notes with earth and spice box suggestions. Full-bodied, the palate has baked berry/raisiny fruit flavors with tannins that are a little hard and chewy. It has a long and uncomplicated finish.

Medium garnet/purple, the 2012 Shiraz The Mad Hatter has a nose of Bing cherries, blackberries and mulberries with bay leaf and peppercorn hints. Medium-bodied, soft, supple and fruity in the mouth, it has a medium to long, red berry-laced finish.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2009 The Mad Hatter Shiraz is intensely scented of ripe mulberries, blueberry pie filling and licorice with hints of tree bark, cinnamon stick and mace. Medium to full bodied, it offers mouth-filling ripe berry flavors supported by very crisp acidity and a medium level of rounded tannins, finishing long. Drink this one now through 2017+. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons Ltd, New York, NY; www.frederickwildman.com