Hiedler 2010 年份的 Riesling Gaisberg 濃郁活潑，緊實明快；酒中帶有胡椒、礦物質(zhì)和柑橘油的味道。余味緊致，還帶有酸橙、醋栗、杏子和金橘的風味。

Hiedler’s 2005 Riesling Gaisberg represents a qualitative leap up from his Rieslings that went before. (Although Hiedler notes that there was a period when, hard as it may be for me to believe, the Steinhaus struck him as at least as good.) A gorgeous aroma of white peach, mint, and sage leads to a lush, creamy palate tasting of peach, almond, and sage, and loaded with fascinating mineral notes. Refined and long, this preserves subtly smoky, salty and wet stone mineral notes along with pure peach and high-toned herbal essences. This wine is possessed of a delightful sense of interplay and buoyancy. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Loiser Berg ($24.00; 85), 2004 Riesling Steinhaus ($33.00; 85+), 2005 Weissburgunder Spiegel (not available; 86).Ludwig Hiedler – now that he has a spacious new cellar – is working to see how many chemical and mechanical accretions of modernity he can strip away. Spontaneous fermentation, no supplemental enzymes and no added sulfur to the must will, he has come to believe, make for wines much more expressive and distinctive, even if they are then slower to open in the spring and may mature a bit (“but only a bit”) sooner. This approach is a reaction to what Hiedler sees as standardization of wine as well as an attempt to bring cellar practices into harmony with his herbicide- and pesticide-free ideals in the vineyard. “And there’s a third reason,” he adds. “I’m looking for excitement. There’s always excitement in the vineyard, and I want some of that inside the cellar as well.” His new approach is having an immediate effect in lower alcohol, Hiedler surmises, on account of less efficient conversions by natural yeasts. Wines are finishing with as much as three-quarters of a degree less alcohol, he claims, than they would previously have done with the identical must weights.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Hiedler’s 2004 Riesling Gaisberg was, he relates, another wine very slow to open up this spring and moody on occasions, but the day I visited, it was evidently at a manic high point. Aromas of salted almond, yellow plum, honey and flowers suggest a combination of advanced, faintly botrytised ripeness with vivid, crushed stone minerality, and that is precisely what gets poured over the palate as well, in full, deep, yet invigorating waves. The finishing persistence of mineral salts, spices, plum pits, toasted nut oils, and wood smoke paves the palate in custardy, honeyed fruit as well as a firm, densely dusty bed of crushed stones. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300