Hirsch’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Heiligenstein features lentil and green bean with a slightly grassy and floral overtone. Bright and tart, yet silken in texture, cool and soothing on the palate, this well-concentrated Veltliner then finishes with tactile bite of lavender and white pepper. Deep notes of tobacco, nut oils, and wet stone well up as the wine opens, and this should make for fine and versatile drinking over the coming 5-6 years. Johannes Hirsch was already done harvesting in 2007 on October 8 (after starting September 13), not far behind the Nikolaihof. And there is another connection with that venerable estate which may or may not be vital: Hirsch has been passionately pursuing a biodynamic path. I did manage to get a smile out of him when I suggested that he consider replacing the pile of cow horns he had accumulated with much rarer and surely more efficacious antlers of elk (Hirsch). “The clusters were beautifully golden-yellow, perfect,” he relates, so there was no need to wait, which meant missing out on the mid-October rains.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300