Dry and tannic, this has some sweet and lightly chocolaty boysenberry, cherry and cassis fruit holding down the center. The wine seems wrapped in a fair amount of acid and tannin, and it needs both food and air to show its best. It’s a good steak wine, firm and reasonably substantial, with some indications of red licorice and black coffee in the finish.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 87