There is an appealing, loose-knit openness to this wine, which is labeled Cabernet Sauvignon but includes 15% Merlot and some Cabernet Franc and Lemberger as well. Lemberger, you say!? Well, it adds a touch of grapey insouciance to the wine, which is fruity, forward, nicely balanced and easy to enjoy. ——P.G.(6/1/2001)—— 87