Lemberger is a rustic, oddball grape that has found a home of sorts in Washington, where it more or less stands in for middle-of-the-road Zinfandel. This is a spicy, rustic wine with open, forward, fruity and generous flavors. There’s a pleasing gaminess that suggests firing up the grill, and a loose-knit friendliness that promises an easy ride.——P.G.(9/1/2000)—— 85