If a whiff of volatility doesn’t turn you off, this tightly layered reserve from Hogue has a lot going for it. Gobs of cherry and cassis fruit, dense and deep, roll into veins of earth, olive and graphite. A big wine with plenty of life ahead. ——P.G.(2/1/2012)—— 91

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is purple/black in color with a nose of toasty oak, mineral, Asian spices, incense, black currant, and blackberry. Medium to full-bodied, dense, and ripe on the palate, this lengthy offering has enough structure to evolve for 2-3 years although it can be approached now. The Hogue Cellars appears to be in a renaissance of sorts. The last time I tasted their wines I was unable to recommend any of them; times have obviously changed. It is Washington’s third largest producer (600,000 cases) and the vineyards (but not the winery) are still owned by the Hogue family.www.hoguecellars.com

Some green tannins and stemmy scents can be found in the nose and tasted in the finish, but this has good concentration and stiff black fruits as well. Licorice and vanilla are woven into a wine that is still pulling itself together.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 88