Il Caberlot Toscana IGT, Tuscany, Italy

卡本洛紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：8166

The 2006 Il Caberlot comes across as very shut down and intensely tannic at this early stage. With some coaxing the fruit gradually emerges, and sweet, mentholated, balsamic notes appear, yet this remains a reticent wine. Today there is little aromatic development, but that will come with time. Underneath the tannins lurks a wine of exceptional balance. Like a shy teenager, the 2006 Caberlot needs some time to overcome its awkwardness. The wine’s length and polish are superb. I sampled the 2006 Caberlot from a 750ml tasting bottle, but the wine is commercially only available in magnums, and in that format is likely to be even more backward than this tasting note suggests! Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Over the years Il Carnasciale has acquired cult status among readers who crave the finest Tuscany has to offer, and rightly so. These are some of the most unique wines from Italy. The estate’s flagship wine, Il Caberlot, is made from a clone originally sourced in a nursery in Veneto believed to be a cross between Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This year, I was especially struck by how reminiscent Il Caberlot is of Giuseppe Quintarelli’s Alzero, minus that wine’s sweetness. In recent years, proprietor Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling have introduced a second wine, named simply Carnasciale. With the 2006, they might have done too good a job with that wine, as it is simply delicious. Readers who have an opportunity to pick up these wines should not hesitate, as they are superb.Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The introduction of a second selection has yielded not only a more affordable entry-level wine, but a superb Caberlot as well. All class and elegance, the stunning 2004 Caberlot presents expressive, exotic aromatics and layers of black currants and blueberries buttressed by prominent mineral notes on an ample frame with fine tannins. Showing plenty of structure as well as stuffing, it should offer its most rewarding drinking beginning around age ten, so patience will be required. The 2004 looks to be the finest Caberlot this estate has yet produced. It is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

Readers who understandably don’t want to delay gratification should consider the 2003 Caberlot. Less aromatically compelling than the 2004, it bursts forth from the glass with masses of super-ripe, jammy fruit on a full-bodied, generous frame with notably fine tannins for the vintage. Made in a style that borders on the extreme edge of opulence, the full-throttle 2003 won’t please every palate, but I found myself captivated by its sheer luxuriousness. It is a remarkably accessible Caberlot at this stage, although my impression is that, like other vintages of this wine, it may start to shut down in the bottle over the next year or so. It is a stunning effort. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484