The Il Marroneto 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie reveals elegance and power all in one go. The fruit quality is crisp and tonic, yet the wine supports mid-weight concentration and a more elaborate style. This vintage from Il Marroneto has two personalities. On the one hand, you get a wine that is packed with beautiful primary fruit but that is slightly more immediate; on the other, you get a wine that promises good aging thanks to its freshness and the silky tannins that melt onto the palate. It is young but also aged. It is racy but also complex. Fruit comes from the vineyard under the Madonna delle Grazie chapel, and the wine ages in special oak casks for 41 months. This is a production of 8,500 bottles.

This is one of the icon wines of the appellation. The Il Marroneto 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie shows an elegantly streamlined appearance with shiny ruby highlights. This warm-vintage expression does not have the same vertical lift that we saw in the glorious 2016 edition, but that wine sets the bar very high (and it earned a 100-point score). This vintage is perhaps shapelier and more saturated with rose, wild cherry, peat moss and blood orange. The house style embraces extreme finesse, and you get that here. Alessandro Mori has also expertly managed the tannins, with results that appear silky and almost glossy. Thanks to elevation and soils, this cool growing site north of Montalcino village performs very nicely in the hot vintages such as this.

There it is: that Il Marroneto magic. To my palate, Alessandro Mori's 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie best captures the soaring spirit and ambition of Brunello, made in its purest and most naked form. This vintage is a twin sibling to the 2010 that I awarded a perfect score. Whereas that wine surprised me, appearing with so much unexpected radiance and brilliance, this wine won me over in a more careful, less emotional and more contemplative manner. Having now tasted the 2010 vintage multiple times, I better know what to expect in terms of the near-term aging evolution of the 2016. I know that the laser-sharp purity of the fruit will soften, leading to more nuanced and finessed tones of underbrush, lilac, iron ore and candied orange peel over the next five years. This wine unfolds to show deep complexity up front with buoyant and jovial red fruit at its core. It vibrates with electric energy and charm.

Balsamic aromas and flavors of juniper, pine and wild thyme dominate the cherry and berry fruit for now, but this red displays a lightness and freshness that offsets the rugged tannins. Ends with an iron streak. Best from 2023 through 2042. 587 cases made, 75 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add