After all the Sideways kicks Merlot took, this wine shows there’s a real future for the variety, if vintners will take it seriously. It has the classic structure of a Cabernet, yet is softer and gentler, although no less complex and rewarding. The cherry compote, cocoa and vanilla flavors are reminiscent of the candies and desserts we grew up with, with sophistication and flair. ——S.H.(11/15/2005)—— 92