The 2007 Syrah Collezione De Marchi bursts from the glass with masses of dark red fruit, smoke and spices, all of which flow effortlessly from this exuberant, caressing wine. This is a first-class effort from start to finish. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, adding to an impression of total finesse and harmony. Mint, flowers and raspberries linger on the caressing finish. This is a dazzling effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027. Various American importers, including: Petit Pois, Merion, PA; tel. (856) 608-9644; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; The Country Vintner, Louisa, VA; tel. (804) 784-2886; Grape Expectation Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 412-5969; Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996; Connoisseur Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 561-8705

The 2006 Syrah Collezione De Marchi is fascinating in the way it reveals varietal character, but with a distinct Tuscan voice. Deep and intense to the core, the Syrah flows with the essence of black cherries, earthiness, sage, rosemary and tar in a voluptuos, powerful style. This shows magnificent integrity in its fruit and fabulous overall balance. Some of the wildness of the Syrah remains untamed, but this is, nevertheless, a gorgeous bottle blessed with a terrific sense of harmony and a long, silky finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Isole e Olena seems to fly under the radar, but insiders know better. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi crafts some of the most engaging wines in all of Tuscany, and Italy for that matter.Various American importers, including: Petit Pois, Merion, PA; tel. (856) 608-9644; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; The Country Vintner, Louisa, VA; tel. (804) 784-2886; Grape Expectation Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 412-5969; Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996; Connoisseur Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 561-8705

he 2004 Syrah Collezione De Marchi, an inky violet, is less expressive in its aromatics although it shows a generous quality in its dark, jammy fruit. I may have caught it at an awkward stage, but it appears slightly less convincing than the 2003. That said, its pedigree is unmistakable Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Various American importers including: Petit Pois, Merion, PA; tel. (856) 608-9644; Carolina Wine Company, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 278-2000; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; The Country Vintner, Louisa, VA; tel. (804) 784-2886; Grape Expectation Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 412-5969; Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MO; tel. (314) 961-8996; Connoiseur Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 561-8705