Bodegas Conde Neo Punta Esencia, Ribera del Duero, Spain

康德酒莊尼歐蓬塔愛森西雅紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：5015

The 2010 Punta Esencia is produced with Tempranillo from very old vineyards aged for a long time in barrel. The wine starts off pretty closed, un-giving. It slowly opens up to reveal fresh aromas of berries, dry flowers, and spices. The palate shows more the effect of the wood and while it seems like it has the stuffing to come back into balance, right now the oak and drying tannins are too predominant. May time be gentle with this fine juice of grapes. Drink 2016-2020. I sampled 2013s from Neo, but they were clearly too young and showed unusual characteristics, so I’ll give them another chance next time ‘round. Importer: Diva Vinos, New York, NY; tel. (917) 627-4934, www.divawine.com

The 2009 Punta Escencia is again, pure Tempranillo that is sourced from 85-year-old vines in La Horra. It has a more floral, decidedly more exotic bouquet than the 2009 Neo with blood orange, dark chocolate and a touch of potpourri with moderate definition. The palate is full-bodied with thick chewy tannins: layers of cocoa-tinged black fruits with a dense, heavyweight finish that I find a little oppressive. I cannot recollect many winery visits where I have been escorted to a fully equipped recording studio. Still, I cannot recollect many wineries like Bodegas Neo, which is so hip that it must have been modeled on Warhol’s “The Factory” (albeit without drugs and occasional shooting.) Proprietor Javier Ajenjo is a man like me: as passionate about music as wine, although personally I do not organize highly successful music festivals – I just don’t have the time and my back garden is not big enough. I wondered whether the music might be too much of a diversion for Bodegas Neo, but I did not find that to be the case. These are generally soundly made, perhaps in a way, oddly conservative wines that might not be the most complex that you can find in Ribera del Duero, but are delicious in their own way. Search “Yani Como” on Youtube to check out Javier’s band. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2007 Neo Punta Esencia is deep purple in color with a brooding bouquet of pain grille, pencil lead, spice box, leather, balsamic, and assorted black fruits. On the palate it has plenty of fruit as well as considerable tannin. It will require 4-6 years of cellaring to round out. Bodegas Neo consists of a bunch of young guys having the time of their lives. They seem to be making wine everywhere (Rueda, Priorat, Bierzo, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero), as well as designing wine labels, recording music videos, and generally partying. But when it comes down to their top two wines, they are deadly serious. On my visit in May, 2010, I was shown verticals of Neo and Neo Punta Esencia. Neo is sourced from 50- to 60-year-old Tempranillo vines and typically aged in French and American oak for 15 months before bottling without fining or filtration. Neo Punta Esencia is made only in the better years. It is sourced from a single, 80-year-old vineyard producing tiny yields. It receives the “200% new oak” treatment spending 12 months in 100% new French oak before racking into a different set of new barrels for 6 months. Importer: Aurelio Cabastrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343

Intense, baked cherry, smoke, cream and spicy vanilla oak aroma. Round, sweet redcurrant fruit, crisp acidity and dry tannins. Tannic, stylish and long.