A standout in the range this year is the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes Au Sud, a medium to full-bodied, ample but incisive wine evocative of pear, hazelnuts, orange oil and freshly baked bread. Layered and mineral, it concludes with a long, saline finish. This parcel was planted less than a decade ago, but that doesn't appear to have held it back in 2019.