Both the 2000 and 2003 seemed dry and disjointed, the best of three vintages tasted being the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva. A pure Cabernet Sauvignon from the “Vinya La Scala” vineyard, aged in new French oak for 24 months, it has an attractive, Medoc-like bouquet with cedar and sous-bois notes on the nose, plus a slight “musky” accent. The palate is medium-bodied, with toasty red fruit, liquorice and soy. There is good weight towards the finish, although the tannins are very dry and rather oaky. Drink now-2015. Jean Leon is a famous Penedes winery, its founder credited with introducing Cabernet Sauvignon to the region in the 1960s, as well as the concept of single vineyard or “pago” wines. Upon his death, his friend Miguel Torres took over the winery, and it is now part of their portfolio. I must confess that I found the wines to be a little commercial and formulaic compared to their peers, almost as if the winery was looking too much at the past, at the colourful life of Jean Leon, instead of forwards to the future. Importer: Elite Wine Imports, VA; tel. (703) 339-8150; Antalva Imports, CA; tel. (310) 695-6260; Hidalgo Imports, FL; tel. (305) 477-7737; and Dreyfus Ashby & Co., NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Somehow I received a sample of the 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva from Jean Leon, a wine that is much older than the rest I tasted. This is a wine that is only produced in special vintages from a selection of grapes from eight hectares of vines for the Vinya La Escala which were planted in 1963. The wine matured for two years in French oak barrels and has been in bottle since April 1999. It has a very classical nose and a polished palate making it a great example of a Mediterranean Cabernet, something in which Jean León was clearly a pioneer. After all these years in bottle there is an obvious reductive character that was a bit distressing at first. As the wine has some age but it is not fragile at all, I'd recommend decanting it in advance. Bell pepper, paprika, brick dust, cedar wood, tobacco and all the classical descriptors are there. The palate is medium-bodied with some dusty, earthy tannins that will never resolve fully and the acidity is quite good. Go for some classic meat dish and you have the perfect marriage! 24,140 bottles.