Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp green orchard fruit, dried white flowers and wheat toast, the 2017 Montagny 1er Cru is medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a generously textural attack, a rich mid-palate and an expansive finish. This is a ripe, fruit-forward iteration of Boillot's Montagny, and it will turn heads in its youth.

The 2014 Montagny 1er Cru from Jean-Marc Boillot has a strict, perhaps slightly conservative bouquet with bruised apple and smoky aromas, but never quite taking off as I might have expected. The palate is well balanced and offers more than the aromatics with attractive peach and Cornice pear notes, well judged acidity and just the right amount of salinity on the straightforward finish. Drink over the next 4-6 years.

Readers in search of a delicious affordable white should check out Jean-Marc Boillot’s fabulous 2010 Montagny. Flowers, pears, flint and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that flow from this gracious, beautifully delineated white. A pure, crystalline finish rounds things out. This is a great showing from Boillot. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is an impressive set of wines from Jean-Marc Boillot. The 2010s are very clearly marked by their terroirs, a departure from vintages such as 2009 and 2011, where the wines are less vivid. Boillot began harvesting on September 19th. Natural alcohols came in around 12.8%-13.2%, pretty much the same as in 2011. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802