The Leitz 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling trocken (-Spatlese- has been eliminated from the labels of Leitz's top dry wines) exudes a marvelous scent of yellow plum, apple and orange blossom, buddleia, and crushed stone; a creaminess of texture; and a finesse, delicacy, and near weightlessness despite legal Trockenheit, that are unique in my experience. A saline, crustacean-like savor, along with citrus zest and piquant nuttiness free of outright bitterness help extend the finish of this uncannily-balanced beauty that tasted even better each time I returned to it. Relish it anytime over the next 10-12 years. Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300