To steal a phrase from Terry Thiese’s 2002 catalogue: “insane quality.” Instead of lamenting the fact that more consumers aren’t drinking German wines, maybe those of us who are should be grateful, for only lack of interest keeps wine that’s this good, this affordable. A touch of sweetness admirably balances the wine’s penetrating acidity, which frames taut apple, red berry and citrus fruit. The sweet-tart finish lingers delicately in the mouth long after you’ve taken the last swallow.——J.C.(11/15/2002)—— 89