Weingut Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spatlese, Rheingau, Germany

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A 2009 Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Spatlese comes from the unique Hinterhaus vineyard section and represents Leitzs first sweet Spatlese from the Rottland since 1999. Candied orange rind, talcum, and peach in the nose follow on a polished, buoyant palate with supportive but restrained impression of sweetness. Suggestions of Persian melon and nut cream add to the soothing appeal of this beauty, while its streak of salinity serves for saliva-inducing savor. I suspect it will still be casting an effective spell 20 years from now. ”Yes it was dry,” says Johannes Leitz about the late summer and early autumn of 2009, “but drought stress? Who said anything about drought stress?” Evidently he either has a different definition for that condition or had different experiences from some of his colleagues, but I let the matter drop, and the quality of the wines here speaks eloquently both to Leitzs belief that nature delivered an almost ideal combination this year of near over-watering followed by dry heat (which he called “the parachute that saved us from a crash landing”), and to his success in what for others was a manifestly challenging season on the Rudesheimer Berg. Leitzs team began picking October 6 and continued for almost exactly one month. Incidentally, after working for nearly two decades from an expansion of his original cellar under the family home in suburban Rudesheim, Leitz will soon have completed a large new facility nearby.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300