Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken Gold Capsule

點擊次數(shù)：1871

Leitz's 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling trocken Gold Capsule (from the original core site named -Rottland-) practically explodes from the glass in its rush to show off its intensity, with almond, peach kernel, honey, quince paste, persimmon, and pink grapefruit among the elements that reprise on a glycerin-rich, opulent palate. Low-toned coffee, toasted grain and ore-like mineral suggestions follow in a finish of wave-like intensity. Leitz likes to call this his -Wachau style,- a description that must count as caricature. And there is a danger that his wine, too, might become a caricature in its effort to project power. However, the 2006 rendition managed, amazingly, to sublimate 15.5% alcohol, and here nature and Leitz have gotten it down nearly to 14%, a level effortlessly manageable for this Napoleonic wine. How will these extreme, -gold capsule- exercises in ripeness pan out over the long haul? I imagine this will be better consumed a bit earlier than Leitz's other crus - perhaps within 6-8 years (a typical Wachau scale, in fact) - but only time will establish some sense of track record. Often, the high-alcohol among Leitz's wines (such as his 2002 Berg Rottland, the first to crack 14%, if recollection serves) are marked by botrytis - which can become awkwardly bitter - but here, that is not the case.Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300