At age 12, the 1998 Semillon Livermore (a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc) exhibits waxy honeysuckle, Chartreuse liqueur and a slightly herbal component in its medium to full-bodied, concentrated personality. Impressive in a singular style, I suspect it is a “l(fā)ove it or leave it” wine (as most Semillons tend to be), but this white wine remains remarkably youthful at age 12.Probably the most idiosyncratic winery in California (that covers a number of unusual and eccentric proprietors), Kalin Cellars, run by microbiologist Terry Leighton, has a remarkable track record of long-aged Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and Semillons as well as Pinot Noirs, all of which march to the beat of a completely different drummer. I was a buyer early on until it became almost impossible to find the wines in the Maryland/DC market. I also tasted the 1998 Pinot Noir Cuvee DD, which I did not like. I say that because I have some of Kalin’s Pinot Noirs from the early eighties in my cellar and they are aging beautifully. I kept asking myself what I was missing in the 1998, but it was herbal and tomato-like. However, I have seen Leighton’s wines do complete make-overs in the bottle, so I could very well have misjudged this offering from an eccentric genius working out of a warehouse in Marin County.Tel. (415) 883-3543; Fax (925) 283-2909

The magnificent 1997 Semillon is still young and fresh at ten years of age. A light gold color is accompanied by a waxy, honeyed nose revealing hints of citrus oil, earth, and a touch of Thai lemon grass. Full-bodied, rich, and dense with superb acidity as well as freshness, this offering may last another decade. It will drink beautifully with any number of Asian cuisines. The idiosyncratic Terry Leighton, who has produced some magnificent wines that have stood the test of time for nearly two decades, releases his wines 2-10 years later than most producers. I have always loved them, and I have been remiss in not reporting on them as frequently as I should. He often makes what may be the finest Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon in California.Tel. (415) 883-3543; Fax (925) 283-2909