Labeled for its specific site of origin (not far from the river’s edge and the town’s sundial), the 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese Kranklay offers a more pungent expression of herbs than its fellow Erbes Rieslings, allied to honey-glazed fresh pear and strawberry, and exhibiting some of the same delightfully weightless yet mouth-filling sense of lime chiffon as accrued to the feinherb rendition. Stefan Erbes has been attracting considerable positive attention even in the relatively residual sugar-adverse German press, so I thought it high time to meet and taste with him. A sizeable percentage of old, ungrafted vines and ambitious quality-consciousness on his part are combining for some very good, ultra-clean, largely tank-rendered, and modestly-priced Riesling, most of it – predictably – sold abroad, particularly in Japan. His 2008s struck me as surprisingly soft in their impression of acidity, which Erbes attributes in part to a combination of skin contact and high tartrate precipitation.Importers include Boston Wine Company, Somerville, MA; tel. (617) 628-5967 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Mint, strawberry, and banana in the nose of Erbes’ 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese take a rather confectionary turn on the palate, with enough primary juiciness to give refreshing satisfaction, and hints of salted caramel adding interest in the finish. This very sweet but pure, site-typical Spatlese will certainly keep well for at least 12-15 years. Stefan Erbes has been attracting considerable positive attention even in the relatively residual sugar-adverse German press, so I thought it high time to meet and taste with him. A sizeable percentage of old, ungrafted vines and ambitious quality-consciousness on his part are combining for some very good, ultra-clean, largely tank-rendered, and modestly-priced Riesling, most of it – predictably – sold abroad, particularly in Japan. His 2008s struck me as surprisingly soft in their impression of acidity, which Erbes attributes in part to a combination of skin contact and high tartrate precipitation.Importers include Boston Wine Company, Somerville, MA; tel. (617) 628-5967 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Right now the aromas are a bit tight—even steely—with just modest hints of apple and lime, but the fruit comes to the fore on the palate, exploding with baked apple and spice flavors, balanced by zippy acids. Best from 2011–2015.——J.C.(8/1/2009)—— 91

Lithe, with delicate tendrils of apple, nectarine and melon flavors that deftly infiltrate the palate. Sweetness is nicely balanced by acidity, but the flavors fall off a little quickly on the finish. Imported by Chapin Cellars. ——J.C.(2/1/2006)—— 87

Nicely done spatlese—slightly sweet, yet well-balanced by acidity. Delicately etched pear and pineapple fruit carries hints of apple blossoms and vanilla. More length on the finish would have pushed the score higher. ——J.C.(12/15/2004)—— 88