Geiben's 2009 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett achieves the combination of clarity, lift, and refreshment that eludes too many of his wines of this vintage. But then, come to think of it, this particular Karlsmuhle bottling enjoys one of the longest track records for success of any Riesling in the greater Mosel realm. Despite 9.5% alcohol (a whole degree higher than the corresponding Mauerchen) and high residual sugar (proof of the sheer ripeness of raw material) this conveys a sense of delicacy to compliment its refreshment accompanied by a sense of sweetness sufficiently restrained to permit invigoratingly saline and distinctively wet stone notes to ring clearly and for the wine to be well worth putting to use at table even in its youth. Apple and honeydew melon are wreathed in honeysuckle and – in addition to the aforementioned mineral dimensions – underlain by rich nut oils and a savory suggestion of meat broth. This should remain delightful for at least a dozen years; though I'm not convinced it has the inner strength for quite the longevity that can sometimes be achieved with Ruwer Kabinett and with this bottling in particular. Young Kai Hausen – who briefly worked at the Karthauserhof as well as with Markus Molitor – is now Peter Geiben's cellarmaster. Unfortunately, neither of them was able to meet with me for this year's tasting of a collection that, like its predecessor, was selectively excellent but unambitious as regards nobly sweet wines, which had been largely missing in 2008 and proved relatively unimpressive this year. (The team essayed a 2009 Eiswein, but Geiben's partner and business manager Sylvia Wells reported to me that it ate up so much sulfur they could not consider releasing it.)Peter Geiben's long-standing collaboration with importer Terry Theise has come to an end, and there is as yet no new importer representing these wines.

Just as in the transition from one to the other of his drier feinherb versions, Geiben’s 2008 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett is considerably more expressive than the comparable Mauerchen. Honeysuckle and apple blossom on the nose lead into a silken-textured, luscious palate dominated by ripe honeydew melon and tinged with cooling mint and alluring cinnamon spice. A saline savor and low-toned nut oil richness help extend and deepen the finishing impression. Although (at 48 grams) this has around a third more residual sugar than the Mauerchen, its sweetness is better-integrated. This excellent representative of its site should be worth following for a dozen or more years. Peter Geiben’s 2008 results were irregular, with some wines too aggressive in their parsnip-like herbal pungency and too opaque as opposed to transparent to count as ideal representations of this estate and its vineyards, while others were distinguished. Geiben says he had bought the requisite preparations and was all set in December to de-acidify some of his young wines, “but then I tasted again in January, and I thought: ‘where’d all that sourness go?’ In the end, I only de-acidified two or three wines.” The main reason for this transformation was simply tartrate precipitation, Geiben opines. Only in March or April though, he insists – echoing many other growers this year – did the wines start to show their positive side. Incidentally, this year all of the wines here fermented spontaneously, and a number of them show it in yeasty, fermentative overlay that needs time to dissipate.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A mix of lime, mineral, peach and anise aromas and flavors ride the vibrant structure in this bracing white. It's compact and slightly astringent, with moderate length. Best from 2009 through 2022.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add

Geiben's 2007 Kaseler Nies-chen Riesling Kabinett leads with smoky pungency of sage, lemon zest, red currant and crushed stone; then delivers expansive, succulent ripe melon, berry and citrus on a silken-textured palate of striking levity and vivacity; and finishes infectiously, with superb transparency to underlying nuances and an ideal balance of acids and residual sugar. As with so many of the best wines labeled -Kabinett- over the past 15 years (2008 will be different!) one could argue that this is more Spatlese, but it represents an outstanding value that will be worth returning to for the next decade. Peter Geiben began picking already October 4th, but did not finish until the 25th. Results were a bit disappointing at the dry end of the spectrum, (a deficiency redressed by his 2008s, incidentally), and more impressive where significant residual sugar came into play.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

Full of flavors that lean toward lime, nectarine and grapefruit, this white is intense and juicy. A bit compact, but should relax and expand with time. Drink now through 2020. 131 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add