The 2006 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb Kollektion Kerpen displays pure Normandy apple cider aromas and fresh fruit, with a subtle creaminess and a fine, distinct underlying wet stone sense of slate. One couldn’t really call it delicate, but it has stuffing without weight. A hint of warmth and roughness takes it down just a tick, but this dry-finishing Riesling will still prove fascinating and versatile at table over the next several years. Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300