Kiona’s medium straw-colored 2008 Riesling reveals an enticing perfume of acacia, honey, peach, and apricot. Light to medium-bodied, on the palate it has lively acidity, fresh fruit flavors, and good length. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (509) 588-6716; www.kionawine.com

The 2007 Dry Riesling Reserve was sourced from a vineyard planted in 1975. The wine offers up a lovely bouquet of spring flowers, mineral, and honey. This leads to a crisp, well balanced Riesling with just a flicker of sweetness buttressed by lively acidity. It makes for a splendid drink on a hot summer day. Virtually everyone that I talked to with any knowledge of the subject states that Kiona Vineyards and Winery grows superb fruit at their Red Mountain estate. However, for whatever reason, they have not been able to translate that into the bottle with any consistency despite the roster of past customers including such notables as Leonetti, Quilceda Creek, and Woodward Canyon. While I was unable to recommend any of Kiona’s red wines, several of the whites were good values and one was exceptional.www.kionawine.com

This off-dry version is a perfect wine for Thai food. The fruit nicely combines tropical flavors with citrus; there is a hint of sweetness, and the elegant, stylish finish continues indefinitely. Graceful and seductive.——P.G.(5/1/2004)—— 89