Koehler-Rupprecht’s 2008 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese was picked out in mid-October prior to the main harvest of its site. This smells of quince, yellow plum, orange, sweet corn, crystallized ginger, and the pure, honey-like secretions of botrytis. It beautifully illustrates the vintage proclivity for buoyancy, brightness, and elegance, even in a wine of creamy richness and rendered from fruit obviously very ripe and far-gone on noble rot. This soothes even as it stimulates in a finish of impressive length. There is great potential here, and I’d plan to drink this between ages 10 and 30. For comments on the recent sale of this estate (the most important of which is Bernd Philippi’s insistence that “nothing will change”) and on other developments here, see my report in issue 185. The choice of Pradikat-designation (or of “Reserve” status) for his many dry Rieslings from the large Saumagen site, explains Philippi, was once again this year – as in many others – based on an assessment of phenolic ripeness (clues: are the grapes greener or deeper gold; how big and how numerous are they?) and ultimately on style, concentration, and perceived aging potential, rather than on must weight, since sugar levels in the grapes were relatively uniform. Philippi acquired the major vineyard holdings of his friend Walter Henninger – notably in the chalky Annaberg – after that estate was recently dissolved, so while he had been farming these parcels and making the wines for many years under Henninger’s label, beginning in 2008 they became Koehler Rupprecht wines.A new U.S. importer had not yet been selected as of press time.

There just wasn’t much botrytis,” says Philippi, “and anyhow late botrytis is seldom good botrytis.” Nonetheless, he did essay a small, early picking of 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese. I found this promising wine to be even more shrouded by its youthful sweetness than the Spatlese, but it is impressively rich and creamy, with flavors of malt, baking spices, candied lemon and deep nuttiness and a long finish. It is clear that for all of its creamy richness this will continue to display for decades the elegance and buoyant personality that characterize so many of the best 2004s.Bernd Philippi is always late to assemble the individual barrels, much less bottle most of his dry Rieslings from the Saumagen vineyard, so a proper overall assessment of 2004 here will have to wait another year. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Focused and elegant, this '97 auslese displays lime, peach and mineral aromas and flavors, a vibrant, racy structure and beautiful harmony accompanied by a long finish . It really sings today, though it will also develop well over the next few years. Not imported into the U.S. Best from 2002 through 2010.??–BS??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add

A big, voluptuous wine with lots of stuffing. Full-bodied and weighty, though it doesn't have quite enough sweetness for the ideal balance. A big punch of flavor at the end brings it back alive, however. Drinkable now, or try it with some age.??–null??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add

Not your typical straightforward Auslese. This is racy, closed up with steely acidity yet rich and ripe character. Medium-to-full bodied, sweet and elegant. Drinkable now.??–null??Region: Germany / Pfalz Select to Add