I never thought I’d write or say words like this, but the Koehler-Rupprecht 2008 Kallstadter Annaberg Weissburgunder Spatlese trocken – tasted from cask – had its work cut out for it to top the corresponding Chardonnay. Green tea, lime, and quarry dust in the nose lead to a firm, refreshing palate with a faintly drying, alkaline streak running through it and into an otherwise citric, herbal, and chalky finish. This is promising, but needs to be revisited from bottle. For comments on the recent sale of this estate (the most important of which is Bernd Philippi’s insistence that “nothing will change”) and on other developments here, see my report in issue 185. The choice of Pradikat-designation (or of “Reserve” status) for his many dry Rieslings from the large Saumagen site, explains Philippi, was once again this year – as in many others – based on an assessment of phenolic ripeness (clues: are the grapes greener or deeper gold; how big and how numerous are they?) and ultimately on style, concentration, and perceived aging potential, rather than on must weight, since sugar levels in the grapes were relatively uniform. Philippi acquired the major vineyard holdings of his friend Walter Henninger – notably in the chalky Annaberg – after that estate was recently dissolved, so while he had been farming these parcels and making the wines for many years under Henninger’s label, beginning in 2008 they became Koehler Rupprecht wines.A new U.S. importer had not yet been selected as of press time.