The 2010 Sylvaner R emerges from the glass with layers of expressive citrus, lime, white flowers and spices. The wine fills out beautifully in the glass, with gorgeous intensity that flows through gracefully to the rich, creamy finish. Here, too, the combination of richness and minerality is striking. This is an especially rich, deep Sylvaner, but it all works beautifully. The Sylvaner R is made from two parcels that are 17 and 21 years old respectively, which is about as old as vines get in this part of Alto Adige, where the cruel, bitter winters often take their toll on the vines. The R is aged in equal parts stainless steel and acacia casks. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. In just a few years this small, family-run estate in the Valle Isarco has established itself as one of the top wineries in Italy. The Kerschbaumer family used to sell their grapes the nearby Abbazia di Novacella, (which is visible from their property) but now bottle on their own. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer makes wines that are on the rich side for the appellation. He favors aging on the lees although the malos are blocked. A number of the wines are partially aged in oak or acacia casks. The 2010 harvest took place the first week of October, later than normal by recent historical standards.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: De Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2010 Sylvaner is striking. It shows beautiful focus and energy in its perfumed white peaches. Mineral notes appear on the mid-palate, giving the wine an extra dimension of vibrancy through to the finish. This is a slightly cooler, more reserved style than the Muller Thurgau, but just as compelling. The Sylvaner was aged in equal parts steel and acacia oak casks. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. In just a few years this small, family-run estate in the Valle Isarco has established itself as one of the top wineries in Italy. The Kerschbaumer family used to sell their grapes the nearby Abbazia di Novacella, (which is visible from their property) but now bottle on their own. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer makes wines that are on the rich side for the appellation. He favors aging on the lees although the malos are blocked. A number of the wines are partially aged in oak or acacia casks. The 2010 harvest took place the first week of October, later than normal by recent historical standards.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: De Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2009 Sylvaner is one of the most intense, rich wines in this line-up. Here the aromatics seem a touch subdued, while it is the ripe fruit and textured mouth feel that play a leading role in the wine’s balance. This is a decidedly bold, extroverted wine from Kofererhof. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Kofererhof is one of the jewels in Italian oenology today. These brilliant, pure whites capture the essence of the Isarco Valley, Italy’s most northerly appellation. In short, I can’t recommend these wines highly enough.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119