A pretty, even elegant, Russian River release is the 2014 Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard, which saw around 20% whole clusters and just under a quarter of new oak. Plums, spice box, black cherries and violets all flow to a medium to full-bodied, pure, seamless and silky 2014 that has fine tannin, no hard edges and a great finish. It shows more and more elegance with time in the glass and will impress for at least a decade.

One of the more feminine, elegant and pretty Pinot Noirs in the lineup, the 2013 Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard exhibits a lot of spring flowers and sappy underbrush notes, as well as ample underlying darker berry fruit. Lively, fresh and taut on the palate, yet still with depth of fruit and texture, it’s beautiful now but should evolve gracefully.

The 2012 Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard has an edgy, vibrant feel with its plum and sweet black cherry fruits, charred spices and licorice giving way to hints of spring flowers and mint. Layered, beautifully pure and defined, with bight, yet integrated acidity, it needs another year in the cellar, and will impress through 2020.

The 2010 Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard is a classic Russian River Pinot. Plums, black cherries, mint, licorice and sweet spices all flesh out in the glass. I very much like the length and overall sense of polish. In 2010 the Koplen is striking in its beautiful balance and radiant, supple personality. The Koplen is among the wines that were partially fermented in oak vats, 20% in this case. In 2010, the Koplen also includes 20-25% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Kosta-Browne is one of those places that always seems to be buzzing with a positive vibe that is hard to fully describe, but that I am sure informs these exuberant, deeply expressive wines. I arrived for my tasting as the winery was completing their move to new, spacious digs at The Barlow, a large facility food/wine industrial park facility in Sebastopol that also houses Pax Mahle's winery plus a number of restaurants, markets, cheese shops, coffee houses and sellers of other local food specialties that will move in shortly. The Barlow is still undergoing its build out, but it will be very interesting to see how the project develops in the coming years. As for the Pinots that have made K-B so famous, the wines keep getting better and more refined with each passing vintage. One big development is the acquisition of Gaps Crown by investor Bill Price, who is also an owner of Kosta-Browne, which means that Gaps Crown now becomes essentially an estate vineyard, although I am told contracts with other growers who purchase fruit will remain in place. It-s all part of the constant energy that seems to be an essential part of K-B-s DNA. Tel. (707) 823-7430

The 2009 Pinot Noir Koplen Vineyard is gorgeous. Black cherries, menthol, spices, violets wrap around the palate in this sensual, alluring wine. Here the aromas and flavors tend towards the dark, sepia-toned end of the spectrum. The Koplen is layered, complete and totally beautiful. There is an element of gravitas that is particularly appealing. The Koplen was partially vinified in wood uprights, with 18% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Kosta Browne is one of the great American success stories of the last decade. The story begins when longtime friends Dan Kosta and Michael Browne discover a shared passion for Pinot Noir while working together at a local restaurant. They start with a tiny amount of homemade Pinot Noir, grow gradually, acquire some financing along the way, work their tails off and one day the mailing list requires a five year wait for the vineyard designated wines. Of course I am simplifying, but Kosta Browne is the type of entrepreneurial success that can only happen in this country. Over the years, as the winemaking approach has developed, the wines have become much more finessed than they used to be. Toast levels have come down. Some lots are fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems promising based on the wines I tasted. A number of the wines were fermented with whole clusters, as noted below. The Kosta-Browne Pinots are notable for their exuberant fruit. The wines are incredibly attractive when young, which is when I prefer to drink them. Tel. (707) 823-7430