Krutzler 'Reserve' Blaufrankisch, Sudburgenland, Austria

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Krutzler’s 2006 Blaufrankisch Reserve – from 25 to 40 year-old vines, and matured in barriques and larger casks – offers a lovely layering of fruit typical for the best wines of its grape: distilled black cherry; fresh, invigoratingly tart black cherry and blackberry; and a suggestion of confiture as well. Abundant, fine-grained tannins and the wine’s bright, energetic overall cast lend it an aura of athletic leanness, yet there is ample glycerin to convey a flattering polish. Smoky tobacco, brown spices, walnut oil, iris-like floral perfume, fennel, bitter chocolate and crushed stone add inner-mouth complexities that follow into a satisfyingly long finish. Had I not known the grape here, I might have guessed it to be at least in part Cabernet Franc. I really like the style of this wine, and anticipate its being versatile at table for at least the next 4-5 years. I did not have a chance to visit last year with Reinhold Krutzler, about whose estate I wrote in more detail in issue 160. I wrote there that Krutzler curtailed single-vineyard bottlings in part “because any reputation that accrued to individual sites in Deutsch-Schutzen and neighboring Eisenberg is largely a distant memory.” That said, given the quality of Eisenberg wine in a very different style from Uwe Schiefer (see elsewhere in this report and in issue 177) and more recently emerging at Weninger (also covered in this report) Blaufrankisch from this sector straddling the Hungarian border in South Burgenland has moved closer to achieving not just the attention it deserves, but scrutiny of individual sites.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700