Weingut Krutzler Perwolff Blaufrankisch Qualitatswein Trocken, Sudburgenland, Austria

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6579

The Krutzler 2006 Perwolf comes from up to 50 year-old Blaufrankisch vines (plus 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) vinified in wooden open-top fermenters and aged in casks and barriques of various ages. At 14% alcohol, it is amply ripe but shares fresh fruit elements with its diminutive siblings. Blackberry preserves, cassis, machine oil, brown spices, and pungent smokiness on the nose set the stage for a sumptuous, glycerin-rich, creamy palate full of ripe black fruits that retain appealing and invigoratingly tartness, yet beautifully cover the wine’s fine tannins. The sense of brightness in the finish at first seems faintly discordant with the polished impressions that came before. But the fruit, spice, and stone here all cling implacably, and a short time in bottle is sure to help this achieve harmony without loss of energy. With past Perwolf bottlings as a guide, I expect this be a decade-long keeper. I did not have a chance to visit last year with Reinhold Krutzler, about whose estate I wrote in more detail in issue 160. I wrote there that Krutzler curtailed single-vineyard bottlings in part “because any reputation that accrued to individual sites in Deutsch-Schutzen and neighboring Eisenberg is largely a distant memory.” That said, given the quality of Eisenberg wine in a very different style from Uwe Schiefer (see elsewhere in this report and in issue 177) and more recently emerging at Weninger (also covered in this report) Blaufrankisch from this sector straddling the Hungarian border in South Burgenland has moved closer to achieving not just the attention it deserves, but scrutiny of individual sites.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2003 Perwolf comes from up to 50 year-old Blaufrankisch vines (with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon added) and is vinified in wooden open-top fermenters, followed by aging in casks and barriques of diverse age. Black raspberry with a caramelized edge in the nose leads to a creamy, rich, full-bodied palate impression with cooked black fruits, mocha-coffee, a hint of caramel, but also – for lack of any better word, again – mineral complexities of salt, iron filings and wet stones. The finish is strong and low-toned with a note of sweetness appropriate to the sheer ripeness of the fruit. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2002 Perwolf displays bright black raspberry aromatics with notes of tarragon and iodine. Clear in fruit and medium-bodied, it exhibits an attractive interplay of black fruit, herb and mineral nuances, and a long, if understated, finish of fruit and mineral along rather Medoc-like lines. This 2002 strikes me as having the balance and inner springs to age quite interestingly, for consumers able to afford that sort of experiment.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700