Refreshing, sultry aromas of honey, lemon and rich spice lead this sweet Muscat from Samos. On the palate, unfolding layers of honey, nuts and citrus are kept aloft by a touch of acidity. A pretty, approachable sip with an exotic flair.——S.K.(4/1/2010)—— 86

The 2007 MUSCATO VIN DOUX is closer to a traditional Greek Muscat, aged in stainless steel, although the price is a little higher than normally seen (the $18 suggested retail price here is for a 750ml not a 375, unlike the older bottlings). Yet, this is a cut above the ordinary, too, surprisingly viscous and honeyed, with simply delicious fruit. The only quibble would be the shorter finish. It tails off after the first rush of fruit, becoming a bit more typical. It is still delicious and clearly a cut above. This is plainly not the best wine of this winery’s Muscats, lacking both the intensity of flavor and finish of the stunning Anthemis and Nectar, but it is far and away the best value. Drink now-2020. Samos has had a tradition of making sweet Muscats for centuries. Many of the French Muscat vines (as planted in Alsace, for instance) are said to originate from Samos cuttings. The traditional method of production is to add alcohol distilled from grapes near the end of fermentation. The winery says that it deviates from this practice for the Anthemis and Vin Doux bottlings by adding the alcohol directly to the freshly pressed must. This, the winery says, does not change the sugar or alcohol levels, but does produce somewhat different flavors than typical Muscats. Note that these wines were actually made by the well known co-op on Samos (Union of Winemaking Cooperatives of Samos, separately listed), which makes wines at times for private labels.Importer: Trireme Imports, Huntersville, N.C.; tel: (704) 875-1973.